Meet Sugus: Top Dog of Kuta Beach

This is Sugus.

Beach Stud

Sugus has an “owner” – Linda, one of the “Bosses of the Chairs” (beach chair renters) at the beach. Linda clearly loves Sugus.

Every morning Sugus and Linda hop on her motorbike and travel the two or so kilometers to the beach together.  One is rarely without the other.

Commuting to Work

When Sugus gets to the beach, he’s on his own. He dumpster dives:

Lunch Time!

He chases the bitches. Then has a nap.

<I can’t believe I don’t have a photo of this dog taking a nap!>

He barks at whomever he wants to, just because he can. Small children and old women with big plastic bags beware – no one is spared.

Those of us who know Sugus make up stories about him to pass the time:

  • he sleeps all day because he’s been up entertaining the ladies at Sky Garden the night before;
  • we try to pick out the beach dog who is his “daddy.”

While I can’t say I participate in or condone this one, some of the beach boys pick on him a bit, giving him a little scare every once in a while. You know – a “pop” from a plastic bottle top forcibly expelled in his direction.  He usually just jumps up, yawns, and re-locates his nap.

Urban legend has it that one night Sugus even killed a cat. At only about 20 lbs., I’m not so sure he could (or actually WOULD) do that. But it makes for a good Sugus story.

Sugus accompanied another tourist to a party at my apartment, which is about 2 km from where he lives. He just left Linda on the beach and hopped on this friend’s motorbike for the ride here.

He spent some time chasing my landlord’s dogs around the yard while we had our party.

At one point I asked, “Where’s Sugus?”

Someone replied, “He went home.”

“How?” I asked.

“He just went. Walked home.”

“He knows the way?”

“Of course, he lives here!”

I guess he’d had enough of the party and did what any self-respecting, bored dog would do – he left.

So yesterday when my friend and I wandered into the street outside the beach wall where people who work there gather at the end of the day, assembling their goods and families for their trips home, I was dismayed to see Sugus DISTRESSED. He was pacing amongst the snarl of motorbikes where Linda normally parks, looking around for her.

At one point he jumped on the motorbike of one of the beach boys he sees daily. I asked, “Do you know where he lives?”

“No,” Alan replied, looking concerned but not really knowing what to do. Sugus wouldn’t budge until I started petting his neck and ears and coaxed him back to the curb.

“What should we do? Is Linda gone?” I asked my friend who was giving me a ride home.

“We can take him home.”

“Do you know where Linda lives?” I asked.

“Yeah” he said, “we can take him there.”

With little coaxing, Sugus mounted my friend’s scooter on the flat spot in front of his feet. He’s an expert rider and didn’t flinch, even when we had to make some hard, sudden stops or hit the speed bumps. I swear he was sleeping standing up.

When we arrived at this home, my friend had to wake him up to get him off the bike and headed towards his house. He looked a little dazed and confused when I looked back at him, but I’m sure he got inside.

Sugus was back on the beach today, up to his usual antics. It’s his home, and he was expected.

Posted in Asia, Bali, beach dog stories, dog travel stories, Heather Boylan, Indonesia, motorbike, southeast asia, travel, travel writing, travelwithheather | Tagged , , , , | Leave a comment

Crocs: An Unlikely Solution to the Asian Rainy Season Dilemma

I bought a pair I bought a pair of Crocs yesterday.

The horror!!! This purchase was one of the most difficult I have ever made.

You see, I can’t stand Crocs. I think they’re:

  • ugly
  • clunky
  • and overall pretty darn stupid.

I can’t believe how people around the world can’t get enough of these stupid shoes – there are Crocs shops everywhere, and on more feet than populate China!

Fake Crocs, even. As if someone would want to IMITATE those?!? Asian people love them, as do ex-pats and tourists. I just don’t get it…

To you whom I am offending with my opinion – I am deeply sorry. But you too have been brainwashed into thinking these injection-molded plastic sidewalk surfers are “fashion.”

Sadly, they are anything but. I have even told more than one friend to “shoot me on the spot” if they ever see me wearing a pair.

At least seven years ago, my friend Moriah showed up at my apartment in – gasp! – a bubblegum pink pair of Crocs. “What are those?!?” I shrieked in dismay, backing away, as if from a stray cockroach.

“Those are HORRIBLE!” I exclaimed.

“What do you mean, what are these? They’re Crocs. Oh, my you are a fashion dummy!” she replied. “These are the most comfortable shoes in the world! Look at those boots on your feet! Now those, my friend, are a problem.”

“What’s wrong with my Steve Madden army boots?” I asked defensively. “I have had these forever. I wear them every day!”

“That’s precisely my point. They are OLD. Out of fashion. Look at those big clunky things?!? Awful! I bet they even smell bad! Anyways, boots are pointy now. Everyone knows that!”

“Well, your Crocs sure aren’t pointy – and they’re PINK for God’s sake! I can’t believe you would wear those out of the house!!!”

We went back and forth for a few minutes in this way, then agreed to disagree on the Crocs AND the boots.

Fast forward seven years or so, and yesterday in Singapore I was shopping for a pair of simple black shoes acceptable for work here. My selection criteria:

  1. Not canvas (my Tom’s were great, but could have walked away on their own after last summer);
  2. Water-resistant – leather or some other material that can stand up to the rainy streets;
  3. Comfortable, especially for standing on tile floor for hours; 3. A good fit – my feet are difficult, and fully resist “shoes;”
  4. NOT sandals.
  5. Somewhat stylish. I’m no fashion plate (as indicated above), but I do want to look somewhat up-to-date.

I found a MASSIVE mall right across the street from the office where Ismail processed my Visa (the reason for the trip). I settled in for a day of much-needed shopping. I had a list that I followed pretty closely. “Black shoes for work” have been on that list for ages, and I’ve been looking around everywhere I go.

I tried on a few pairs of black flats at a couple of stores. All were wrong in some way.

  • bad style
  • uncomfortable
  • pleather (plastic leather)
  • bad fit.

I am picky, and as this will be the first – and likely the only – pair of shoes I buy in 2012, they must be perfect.

After having no luck on the first three floors, I rode the escalator up to the fourth floor of the gigantic mall. As I emerged on floor four, it appeared right in front of me: Crocs. Ugh. Should I go in? No way. They would be waterproof, and Moriah says they are comfortable. But I can’t! I won’t! I… MUST! I shan’t!!! I….

The battle in my brain waged on and I took a peek inside. Eee-gads! Horrible-ness everywhere, in every color of the rainbow!

The little plugs that people use to decorate them were also strewn about the store, which was crowded with both people and shoes, and very cluttered. Ugh!

And then I spotted them hanging on the wall (which I also find objectionable):

The Horror!

  1. Not canvas – check.
  2. Water-resistant – check.
  3. Comfortable – oh, no! Remarkably so!!! And they fit so well…
  4. NOT sandals. Whimper. Check!
  5. Somewhat stylish. Yes… sigh.
  6. They’re also super-light, un-crushable… oh noooooo!!!

Okay, so I bought a pair of Crocs and I’m actually looking forward to wearing them to a meeting today.

And then, when I take off my “work” costume I will slip back into beach-bum mode and don my Reef flip-flops. Which might in fact need some updating as well. There were some cute ones in the Crocs store, and I know I can find one of those in Kuta…

Posted in Asia, counter culture, Crocs, English teachers abroad, English teaching, Heather Boylan, Indonesia, lessons, peer pressure, reality, reality check, shocking, southeast asia, teachers who travel, teaching English, travel, travel writing, traveling with Heather, travelwithheather, Uncategorized, writing | Tagged , , , , , , , , , | 2 Comments

Language Learning for the Linguistically Challenged

Learning Bahasa Indonesia for me is like climbing Mt. Everest. After six months on and off in the country, I decided to do something about my complete lack of knowledge and hired a teacher.

My teacher has a great, bubbly personality; she knows a shit-load about language; and after eight lessons I can understand maybe ten words she says:) Not her fault, I’m sure, but this process has been tedious and fraught with great frustration for me thus far. I feel like she’s getting frustrated, too. Thankfully, she reacts to her frustration by feeding me with kindness…

For me, a language teacher, you might think learning language would be easy. I understand how language works; how its different structures in different languages must be learned; and that the process is different for everyone. I understand that it requires practice and repetition. That until you really use it, you won’t get anywhere with it. And, just like any muscle, if you don’t use it, it will atrophy.

I have people around me who are willing and able to practice with me ANY time I want to. But here’s the problem: when I attempt to shift my brain and tongue into Bahasa Indonesia, there is exactly NOTHING I can say. The cat takes my tongue and my brain and ties them into a giant knot.

I have lists of phrases and parts of speech; flash cards; podcasts; books, notebooks, and more books. And still, I am at a total loss about what to say when I open my mouth. WIthout fail, when my teacher speaks to me I look at her with a dumb expression, just shaking my head in blank lack of understanding. “We just learned that!” she exclaimed in exasperation last time we met. And indeed we had. But then I promptly un-learned it, about 1 hour and 50 minutes into the lesson. I was beat, and my brain could take no more. It felt turned inside out and squeezed dry. My eyes, however, were not dry, however, as my frustration level was at an all-time high, and I started to cry. I’m not sure what was more embarrassing – crying over not being able to speak, or simply having absolutely NO understanding of what I have been studying for four weeks now…

One Indonesian friend suggested walking around all the time just repeating all the words I can remember. “Like a crazy person,” he added, “even in the shower.” That made me laugh. Indeed, this undertaking is making me feel like a crazy person.

Another fellow Bahasa Indonesia learner said, “I just try to learn 2-3 words a day. That’s more than enough.” Indonesian is like her fifth language. She gets it…

My anxiety about learning Indonesian has risen to the point that I’m starting to have a mental block against the language completely. I know THAT’s not going to help the situation. So I continue to struggle – to listen carefully and to absorb everything I possibly can. Will I be able to speak this language one day? I certainly hope so. If not, I won’t starve to death in Indonesia. But I won’t connect with Indonesian people in a way I hope to. Failure is not an option.

Posted in Asia, Bali, English teachers abroad, English teaching, grammar, Heather Boylan, Indonesia, learning curve, lessons, southeast asia, teacher education, teachers who travel, travel, travel writing, travelwithheather, writing | Tagged , , , , , , , , , | 2 Comments